臭豆腐、大鱿鱼，到底是怎么占领全国景区美食街的
<p>现在大家旅游，与其说是逛遍各地风景，不如说是去吃遍各地美食。</p><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>但走过大江南北的朋友大概也已经发现了：你坐飞机来到千百公里以外的城市，却依然在美食街吃着家楼下就能吃到的“家乡味道”。</p><p>比如，从北京飞往成都的朋友，或许在游玩第一站——宽窄巷子里，就能感到一股回家的亲切感：这儿不是南锣鼓巷吗？</p><p>不管跑去哪里，全国景区美食街的美食总是出奇地一致：轰炸大鱿鱼、长沙臭豆腐、新疆羊肉串、老北京酸奶……</p><p>全国景区的美食街，到底为什么被大鱿鱼和臭豆腐占领了？</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;"><section style="margin: 0px 0px -6px; padding: 0px 2px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; line-height: 1; font-size: 21px; letter-spacing: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94);"><p><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;">差不多的美食街，</strong></p></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;"><section style="margin: 0px 0px -6px; padding: 0px 2px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; line-height: 1; font-size: 21px; letter-spacing: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94);"><p><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;">差不多的美食</strong></p></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>如果你是一个南方人，第一次来回民街，大概会期待着把泡馍、柿子饼、灌汤包之类的西安小吃一下全吃个遍。</p><p>而实际上，来了你才发现，比泡馍和凉皮还多的，是三十米一个的臭豆腐，和五十米一家的轰炸大鱿鱼。</p><p>与此类似，在武汉的户部巷里，你或许既能找到“老长沙臭豆腐”，又能看到“老北京爆肚”。全街小吃只有“汉口大酸奶”和武汉有点关系，但它喝起来又大概和全国各地的老酸奶都没啥区别。</p><p>如此情况基本可以在全国各地的景区美食街中看到：成都的宽窄巷子，福州的学生街，厦门的中山路，南京的夫子庙，上海的城隍庙，太原的食品街，北京的南锣鼓巷......</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>在小吃街，有时候你可以吃到全国各地的美食 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>事实上，景区美食同质化现象早已存在。餐饮类型高度相似是餐饮同质化的一个重要表现，不管去哪个景区，都是快餐店、火锅店、烧烤店，如此种种，比比皆是。</p><p>比如，一项针对北京4A景区的餐饮调查发现，景区内最多的餐饮类型就是售货亭——那些卖烤肠和玉米的小铺子。在颐和园、动物园等景区，售货亭的占比均超过50%，其次多为中式快餐和西式快餐店，本地的小吃占比反而不多。</p><p>地点转到南京的钟山景区，情况也基本类似。快餐店占据景区餐饮的半数，而就算不是快餐店，提供的餐品也有较多雷同：毕竟，叫“南京小吃”和“老南京小吃”的两家饭店，卖的小吃又能有啥不一样呢？</p><p>不光是餐饮类型高度雷同。本该五花八门的美食小吃街，也全被轰炸大鱿鱼、长沙臭豆腐和新疆烤羊肉串霸占了。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>长沙臭豆腐，可不止长沙才有 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>百千条美食街，虽然地处全国东西南北处，但都有着一样的内核：卖到二三十一份的大鱿鱼、臭豆腐之类的“通用”小吃，加上一些并不正宗的当地美食。</p><p>比如宁夏银川的怀远夜市——你想来吃宁夏特产，但美食街上，却是全国小吃大杂烩：东北铁板鱿鱼、桂林米粉、武汉鸭脖、台湾手抓饭，甚至还有土耳其卷饼……</p><p>而这些看似来自全国各地的小吃，实际上很多是由银川本地人经营着，他们自己都可能不知道这些小吃的“正宗”做法，只是在根据食客的反馈来调整小吃工艺。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>银川怀远夜市 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>所以每次假期一到，网上对于景区美食的吐槽就不绝于耳：当代美食街，到底为什么全都是铁板鱿鱼、羊肉串和臭豆腐？</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;"><section style="margin: 0px 0px -6px; padding: 0px 2px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; line-height: 1; font-size: 21px; letter-spacing: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94);"><p><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;">景区的特色美食，都去哪儿了</strong></p></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>在回答这个问题之前，我们不妨先问：景区当地的“传统特色”饮食去哪了？</p><p>其实，很多景区的“传统特色美食”处境都很相似。就拿丽江古城为例，一项田野调查曾记录了丽江古城内近几十年饮食的变迁。</p><p>在20世纪80年代到世纪末，丽江古城的旅游业处于刚起步的阶段。此时丽江古城主要以服务国外游客与本地人为主，还保持着比较原始的风貌。很多当地居民经营着传统的“纳西小吃”，比如丽江粑粑、鸡豆凉粉、小果米线。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 578px; height: auto;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>鸡豆凉粉，丽江特色小吃之一 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>然而，从本世纪初起，丽江地方饮食的这种“原汁原味”很快被摒弃了。</p><p>这是因为，随着旅游业的发展，一方面国内游客成为了丽江古城的主要客源群体；另一方面，越来越多的外地经营者进入丽江古城，很多本地人则因为经济利益等原因开始搬离。</p><p>例如，本地人经营客栈的收益较小，因为到丽江旅行选择住居民自开的民宿的人只占不到10%。因此，很多本地人选择直接把房子租给外地经营者，自己则拎包走人。</p><p>所以，在1986年到1999年年间，丽江的大研古城内平均每年有117.5户、385人迁离古城，同时也有103.8户、311人迁入古城。</p><p>虽然总量没有太大变化，但古城居民的身份变了：迁离的大部分是古城本土的纳西族居民，而迁入的则多为外来经营者，学者称之为古城居民的“置换”。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>丽江古城的旅游业吸引外来人口 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>旅游业越发达的景区，就越来越像一个一波外地人经营、另一波外地人来消费的空间。</p><p>这种居民“置换”的直接影响，是传统饮食的继承人离开了。根据浙江省有关统计，地方小吃餐饮行业的经营人群中，30岁以下的占比不到4%，有些特色小吃的祖传手艺就这样后继无人。</p><p>另一方面，更大的影响在于，旅游景区的饮食文化会随着外地经营者与游客的到来而产生变化。例如，一项研究显示，大理古城的川味餐饮较多，就是因为从川渝地区到外地经营餐饮业的人比较多，而且川渝游客又是来大理旅游的团体客与散客的“主力军”。</p><p>大部分情况下，外地经营者和游客来自五湖四海，在饮食上重口难调。因此，为了迎合多数游客口味，古城的餐饮就开始出现了地域性消退的“标准化”趋势。</p><p>制作工艺上，丽江的餐饮店舍弃了纯手工的方式，一些餐厅使用的菜品如鸡豆凉粉、丽江粑粑都已经是成品，只需要进行调味加工即可。为了迎合游客口味，餐厅也改变了传统纳西饮食“重油、重盐、重辣”的味道，油、盐、辣都适度放少了。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>手工制作的丽江粑粑，往往更有当地风味 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>这被学者称为餐厅们的“麦当劳化”——效率化、可计算性、可预测性和可控制性成为景区餐厅的营业准则。标准化的餐饮面前，特色的地方饮食只可遇，不可求。</p><p>再退一步讲，别看一些调查里“地方特色饮食”的呼声那么高，其实很多人都没意识到自己对地方饮食的消费心理是十分矛盾的。</p><p>有学者指出，大众游客是最缺乏冒险性的一类游客，它们隔着熟悉的“环境空气泡（environmental bubble）”，张望东道主社会的人、地和文化，在陌生的环境里仍然以自我熟悉的方式为人处世。对于景区中的特色饮食，游客们一方面认为饮食需要有“原真性”，另一方面又认为当地美食不应与自己所熟悉的味道相差太远。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>以土蚯作为原料的闽南著名小吃土笋冻，可能让很多外来游客不敢轻易尝试 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>毕竟，平心而论，贵州的折耳根、老北京的豆汁儿、海南的“鱼茶”......这些地方传统食物，又有多少外来游客敢于尝试，甚至发自内心觉得好吃？</p><p>那些不符合大部分人口味的传统饮食，就会面临着被“淘汰”的风险。例如，在芒市镇，傣族原居民们喜欢吃生牛肉，但一般游客都无法接受，只能用熟牛肉替代。</p><p>所以，某种程度上，旅游景区发展壮大的本身，就必然伴随着外来文化对当地文化的冲击，伴随着“地方特色美食”的消退。在旅游管理学领域，这个现象被称为“原真性的消解”。</p><p>即使一些餐厅保留了地方特色美食，可能也是改良版的。踏入景区，你可能就得降低对“地方特色传统美食”的期待。</p><p>既然特色美食不可避免地消退了，而景区又不能没有美食，那么有哪些其他饮食来填补这些地方美食的空缺吗？</p><p>答案你已经知道了：臭豆腐、大鱿鱼、老酸奶们，正在占据全国旅游地美食区的大街小巷。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;"><section style="margin: 0px 0px -6px; padding: 0px 2px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; line-height: 1; font-size: 21px; letter-spacing: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94);"><p><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;">臭豆腐、大鱿鱼、命运般的归宿</strong></p></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>所以问题又来了：世上美食千千万，为什么是这些说不上来好吃还是难吃的臭豆腐、大鱿鱼们占据了美食街的大部分市场？</p><p>实际上，大鱿鱼、臭豆腐们在全国美食街称王称霸，是有天然优势的——它们的味道差不多都一样。大部分小吃都在追求“重口味”，一把孜然一把辣椒撒上去，大鱿鱼和羊肉串其实差不多味儿。</p><p>重口味有市场。吃辣有着广泛的“群众基础”，根据外卖平台公布的统计数据，辣是食客们最喜欢的口味，喜欢吃辣的消费者占41.8%，于是辛辣口味就自然而然变成餐饮小吃获取最多顾客的“最大公约数”。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>走在夜市的街上，谁能忍住不来一串烤鱿鱼呢 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>这种忽略食材本身味道、注重调料的做法使得小吃的调味区间很大，基本可以根据食客自己口味来调味，所以做起来没什么技巧，很容易被复制粘贴。毕竟，大鱿鱼能做得多难吃呢？</p><p>工艺简单，容易复制，成本自然也低。以景区内同样常见的“烤肠”为例，有学者估算过热狗烤肠店的盈利情况，按照每天客流量150人次、人均消费15元来计算，减去房租等固定成本，烤肠店的月利润能达到2万元以上，利率能达到40%。</p><p>如果只算食材原料的成本，烧烤小吃车的平均利润甚至能达到200%。虽然各地成本情况不一，但烤肠、豆腐、鱿鱼等原材料的成本基本远远低于其在景区15、20元一份的售价，算是一份稳妥的生意。</p><p>总得来说，“大鱿鱼”类的小吃们，不但口味基础广、调味区间大，而且容易复制、制作成本极低。在美食街这个本质为商圈的地方，这类小吃就拥有了规模化、连锁化的优势——甚至，它们还会“挤走”美食街上原本特色的其他店铺，使得类似的同质化产品在街中到处都是。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>你可能说不上来烤面筋是哪里的特色，但是全国各地都有它的身影 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; font-size: 16px; letter-spacing: 0px; font-family: Optima-Regular, PingFangTC-light; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.94); line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>以南锣鼓巷为例，大约在2009年后，南锣鼓巷的消费者主流从周边民众变成年轻游客，原有的文创店、餐吧、吉他社等特色店铺一一撤走，取而代之的是类似的快消品牌、连锁的文创店铺，以及数不清的炸鸡和烤鱿鱼。</p><p>这是因为旅游业的发展无可避免地提高了店铺的经营成本，其中最重要的成本大约就是租金。</p><p>飞涨的租金几乎是在“赶走”那些盈利一般的特色小店。据报道，2006年南锣鼓巷一家10平米左右的店铺租金为每月三四千元，2010年价格已经涨到了每月八千元，到2017年，不到30平的店铺租金涨到了每月四万元。</p><p>算下来，大约是每平每天44元。要知道，2020年CBD地区的英皇大厦等写字楼的租金价格也不过才每平每天10-14元。</p><p>景区餐饮的租金压力，可想而知。</p></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0;" class="f_center"></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: mp-quote, -apple-system-font, "system-ui", "Helvetica Neue", "PingFang SC", "Hiragino Sans GB", "Microsoft YaHei UI", "Microsoft YaHei", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center; justify-content: center; display: flex; flex-flow: row nowrap; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 28.8984px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: -6px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: left;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; vertical-align: middle; display: inline-block; line-height: 0; width: 17.3359px;" class="f_center"></section></section></section><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; display: inline-block; vertical-align: top; width: 549.094px; align-self: flex-start; flex: 0 0 auto;"><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; text-align: right;"><section style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; max-width: 100%; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(180, 180, 180); text-align: justify; letter-spacing: 1px;"><p>除了商铺，还有一部分商家以摊位的形式营业，相对来说租金更低 / 图虫创意</p></section></section></section></section><section powered-by="xiumi.us" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 12px; max-width: 100%; line-height: 1.9; overflow-wrap: break-word !important; box-sizing: border-box !important;"><p>另外，景区餐饮业还要面对旅游的淡季中白白流失的租金和水电费。这种情况下，商户们的“试错成本”非常低，只能努力缩减劳动力、原料投入等经营成本，选择那些“稳妥”的方向发力。所以成本低廉、工艺简单的“大鱿鱼”类小吃就成为了“美食街天菜”。</p><p>烤得不好吃、炸得太过度，甚至都不要紧。在景区，成本低就是第一要义，质量高低实际上不太重要，毕竟很少有人会两次踏入同一个景区、同一条美食街，去找同一个餐饮店点同一份大鱿鱼。</p><p>用经济学上的“单次博弈”来形容景区餐饮再合适不过了。它们无需考虑口碑的问题，只需要在低成本、高利润这一项目标上发力。</p><p>于是，全国各地的特色商户自然而然地消失了，地方特色的饮食无可避免地走向了大鱿鱼类小吃们的同质化道路。无奈是无奈，但这大概就是美食街的命运般的归宿。</p><p> 孙英杰 & 卢丽宁.(2008).景区餐饮业的发展趋势研究——以北京4A景区为例. 南宁职业技术学院学报(01),8-12.</p><p> 吕春英,梅思思,荆宜,费熠璇 & 黄莹莹.(2016).南京钟山风景区餐饮市场现状及开发对策研究. 江苏商论(08),14-16+32. doi:10.13395/j.cnki.issn.1009-0061.2016.08.003.</p><p> 马成明.(2021).市场经济、人口流动与移民饮食文化的在地化——基于宁夏银川的人类学考察. 青海民族大学学报(社会科学版)(02),141-148.</p><p> 杜雅文. (2018). 权力关系视角下地方饮食的变迁研究 (Master's thesis, 陕西师范大学).</p><p> 王斯. (2016). 對 [正宗菜餚] 的反思: 基於大理雙廊2010-2015年的飲食與變遷調查. 中國飲食文化, 12(1), 215-244.</p><p> 卫跃平 & 高宇.(2008).丽江大研古城居民置换分析. 西南林学院学报(02),73-76.</p><p> 陈炜.(2018).特色小吃产业发展现状与问题的分析研究. 农村经济与科技(11),175-176.</p><p> 高黎,刘芳 & 陈刚.(2017).傣族饮食文化变迁的饮食社会学研究——以云南西双版纳傣族自治州为例. 河西学院学报(04),64-72. doi:10.13874/j.cnki.62-1171/g4.2017.04.010.</p><p> 曾国军,李凌,刘博 & 陆汝瑞.(2014).跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑——西贝西北菜在广州的案例研究. 地理学报(12),1871-1886.</p><p> Ji, M., Wong, I. A., Eves, A., & Scarles, C. (2016). Food-related personality traits and the moderating role of novelty-seeking in food satisfaction and travel outcomes. Tourism Management, 57, 387-396.</p><p> 代维.(2015).乡村旅游与少数民族饮食文化变迁——以芒市镇芒核村的研究为例. 云南开放大学学报(02),58-62. doi:10.16325/j.cnki.ynkfdxxb.2015.02.014.</p><p> 北京青年报. (2021.11.25). 《2021年中国连锁餐饮行业报告》发布 今年餐饮市场规模将恢复至2019年水平. Retrieved from https://finance.sina.com.cn/jjxw/2021-11-25/doc-ikyamrmy5067782.shtml</p><p> 陈群(华福证券). (2021). 餐饮业商业模式探究：连锁化和地域口味差异的矛盾.</p><p> 雷欧厦.(2014).台式烤肠小吃车 灵活经营成本低. 大众投资指南(06),42.</p><p> 林成.(2013).多功能烧烤小吃车 灵活经营投资少. 大众投资指南(09),43.</p><p> 黄斌,吕斌 & 胡垚.(2012).文化创意产业对旧城空间生产的作用机制研究——以北京市南锣鼓巷旧城再生为例. 城市发展研究(06),86-90+97.</p><p> 郑萃颖&沈霄戈(界面新闻). (2016.5.1). 被“挤坏”了的南锣鼓巷 想要喘口气. Retrieved from https://www.jiemian.com/article/632620.html</p><p> 北京晚报. (2009.3.23). 南锣鼓巷：飞涨的转让费 谁是最后接盘人. Retrieved from http://news.cctv.com/china/20090323/107780.shtml</p><p> 罗珍(界面新闻). (2017.5.31). 那些胡同里的生意. Retrieved from https://www.jiemian.com/article/1358510.html</p><p></p><p> 李凯旋&李未来(华夏时报). (2020.6.4). 南锣鼓巷、五道营等胡同大量商铺关店难再开，北京网红胡同能否渡过“疫情劫”？Retrieved from https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1668580867618107240&wfr=spider&for=pc</p><p> 关小萌. (2017). 从经济学角度浅析景区餐饮业“怪象”产生的原因. Retrieved from https://www.fx361.com/page/2017/0407/1466037.shtml</p></section><div style="height: 0px;overflow:hidden;"></div> 凭借科技与狠活。[狗]
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